Scramblegs: August 2017

Wednesday, August 23, 2017

Diedre

5.8, 6 pitches

Squamish (the Apron)

The first time Aaron and I climbed Diedre (circa 2002) was also the first time Aaron had climbed anything. For some reason he didn't think it was an adequately gentle introduction to the sport and he decided that he would never be able to trust me again. Fifteen years later I had not only Aaron's life back in my hands, but that of his first-born, Simon, as well. Together with Eloïse (my own first-born) we had – I think even Aaron would agree – a delightful day out. Surprisingly, given that Diedre might be the most popular climb in Squamish, we also had the whole thing to ourselves for the morning. With excellent pro and rap anchors all the way up, it would be hard to find a better intro to multi-pitch climbing anywhere. Five hours car-to-car for our party (lead climber + second + third and fourth climbing together).

Participants: Eloïse, Simon, Aaron, Pip.

Strava GPX KML Video

Mt. Tszil

Grade I, Class 2
2,377m
Joffre Lakes Provincial Park

Mt. Tszil is an easy scramble above upper Joffre Lake, where we were camped for a couple of nights. This was Oliver's (age 5) inaugural Scramblegs summit, and he was highly motivated to get to the top so he could earn his patch (we now have patches!!). This was an 8-hour round trip from the lake at 5-year-old pace.

Participants: Oliver, Linnaea, Eloïse, Simon, Lisa, Lisa, Pip and Aaron

Strava | Video | GPX | KML

Subjective rating systems used in blog

Reference: The Mountaineers (2010), Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills. 8th Edition (pp. 566-567).

NATIONAL CLIMBING CLASSIFICATION SYSTEM
(overall difficulty; technical / scrambling portion only; see posts for length of our outings).

Grade I: Normally requires several hours; can be of any technical difficulty.

Grade II: Requires half a day; any technical difficulty.

Grade III: Requires a day to do the technical portion; any technical difficulty.

Grade IV: Requires a full day for the technical portion; the hardest pitch is usually no less than 5.7 (YDS; see below).

Grade V: Requires a day and a half; the hardest pitch is at least 5.8.

Grade VI: A multiday excursion with difficult free climbing and/or aid climbing.

YOSEMITE DECIMAL SYSTEM (YDS)
(climbing difficulty)

Class 1. Hiking

Class 2. Simple scrambling, with possible occasional use of the hands.

Class 3. Scrambling; hands are used for balance; a rope might be carried.

Class 4. Simple climbing, often with exposure. A rope is often used. A fall could be fatal. Typically, natural protection can be easily found.

Class 5. Where rock climbing begins in earnest. Climbing involves the use of a rope, belaying, and protection (natural or artificial) to protect the leader from a long fall.

5.0-5.7. Easy for experienced climbers; where most novices begin.

5.8-5.9. Where most weekend climbers become comfortable; employs the specific skills of rock climbing.

5.10-5.11. A committed recreational climber can reach this level.

5.12-5.15. The realm of true experts!

ALPINE GRADES
(Reference: David Jones, Rogers Pass Alpine Guide, p. 28)

F (easy).

PD (little difficulty). 4th and easy 5th class; some exposure.

AD (fairly difficult). Low to mid-5th class and/or steep snow and ice. Mixed terrain. Route finding challenges.

D (Difficult). Mid 5th class and/or very steep snow and ice. Sustained climbing; possibly loose rock; route finding challenges; typically descended via an easier route.

TD (very difficult) and ED (extremely difficult). Not likely to encounter these grades in this blog!