Scramblegs: July 2018

Monday, July 30, 2018

Markhor - Needle Loop

1,995m (Markhor), 2,095m (Needle)
Class 4 / low 5th, Gr. II

Having been up the standard route on Needle several times it was nice to approach from another direction, and this loop has been on my to-do list for years. Other than an initial bushwack up through the steep trees, which turned out to be less of an ordeal than I had been expecting, this was a fantastic route over fun terrain - mostly hiking and easy scrambling with some 4th and even 5th class scrambling with exposure thrown in. A hot, hot day, and we ran a little low on water. Otherwise a thoroughly enjoyable day out!

Participants: Pip and Alex.

Photos Strava Bivouac.com GPX KML

Wednesday, July 04, 2018

Liberty Bell – Becky route (SW face)

5.6, Grade I.

2360m.

Our first of many trips to Washington Pass I hope! Lucky for us, 4th of July fell mid-week this year and Liberty Bell (as well as adjacent climbs) wasn't crowded. Groups ahead and behind us, but we had the summit to ourselves. Jos did great. I taught her to belay at the bottom of the first pitch, so we had the safety thing covered. This was a pretty perfect alpine outing for us. A fun adventure made pretty stress-free by the low grade (mostly low 5th, with some 4th, and very short crux sections), length of the route, excellent rock, easy gear-placements, and rap anchors.

We were about 6hrs car-to-car, including half an hour on the summit.

Also, Winthrop looks like a super cool town. Can't wait to get back.

Participants: Pip and Jos.

Strava | Photos | Bivouac.com | GPX | KML

Subjective rating systems used in blog

Reference: The Mountaineers (2010), Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills. 8th Edition (pp. 566-567).

NATIONAL CLIMBING CLASSIFICATION SYSTEM
(overall difficulty; technical / scrambling portion only; see posts for length of our outings).

Grade I: Normally requires several hours; can be of any technical difficulty.

Grade II: Requires half a day; any technical difficulty.

Grade III: Requires a day to do the technical portion; any technical difficulty.

Grade IV: Requires a full day for the technical portion; the hardest pitch is usually no less than 5.7 (YDS; see below).

Grade V: Requires a day and a half; the hardest pitch is at least 5.8.

Grade VI: A multiday excursion with difficult free climbing and/or aid climbing.

YOSEMITE DECIMAL SYSTEM (YDS)
(climbing difficulty)

Class 1. Hiking

Class 2. Simple scrambling, with possible occasional use of the hands.

Class 3. Scrambling; hands are used for balance; a rope might be carried.

Class 4. Simple climbing, often with exposure. A rope is often used. A fall could be fatal. Typically, natural protection can be easily found.

Class 5. Where rock climbing begins in earnest. Climbing involves the use of a rope, belaying, and protection (natural or artificial) to protect the leader from a long fall.

5.0-5.7. Easy for experienced climbers; where most novices begin.

5.8-5.9. Where most weekend climbers become comfortable; employs the specific skills of rock climbing.

5.10-5.11. A committed recreational climber can reach this level.

5.12-5.15. The realm of true experts!

ALPINE GRADES
(Reference: David Jones, Rogers Pass Alpine Guide, p. 28)

F (easy).

PD (little difficulty). 4th and easy 5th class; some exposure.

AD (fairly difficult). Low to mid-5th class and/or steep snow and ice. Mixed terrain. Route finding challenges.

D (Difficult). Mid 5th class and/or very steep snow and ice. Sustained climbing; possibly loose rock; route finding challenges; typically descended via an easier route.

TD (very difficult) and ED (extremely difficult). Not likely to encounter these grades in this blog!